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In the course of this
sartorial pursuit I discovered Ventile®, a wonderful natural weatherproof material
made of tightly woven, 100 percent cotton.
British heritage
Ventile® was developed in
England during World War II specifically for the immersion suits of
Royal Air Force pilots protecting merchant shipping against long-range
German bombers and submarines. Flying Hawker Sea Hurricanes catapulted
from the bows of converted merchantmen, the pilots had no place to land
back on deck and either bailed out or ditched their planes near the
convoys. The new suits, made with the watertight and thermally
insulating cotton, provided the precious extra minutes needed to survive
the frigid waters until rescue.
Woven in
Switzerland
Today, the successor to
this unique fabric is woven exclusively in Switzerland. The Swiss process takes
cotton from the world’s finest extra-long staple US Pima yarns and
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spins, doubles, and weaves it to
give the fabric its incredible strength and density. A finishing
treatment provides excellent durable water repellency, causing rain to
bead like water off a newly waxed car. In prolonged exposure to
torrential rain the fibers expand making the weave tighter still. Too
tight in fact to let water in, yet still allowing body vapor to escape.
Hand-tailored in the USA
I didn’t need a survival suit and figured that for everyday travel, a
single layer of the densely woven cotton would do quite well. It all came together about two years ago when I was introduced to a very
fine tailor in San Diego, who, before coming to California, had
headed-up both Southwick and Hickey-Freeman tailoring operations on the
East Coast. He, too, was fascinated by the remarkable quality and
properties of the fabric and fully embraced the concept. We’ve worked
together since then through numerous prototypes to create the Voyageur
Travel Jacket offered here. The quality and perfection of his
workmanship are second-to-none. |
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